Contents
This article contains advertising (affiliate) links, marked “Ad”. How we label ads
In short: A spectacular route leads from Tromsø to Skjervøy via two fjord ferries (Breivikeidet – Svensby and Lyngseidet – Olderdalen). According to the regional transport company the trip takes about 3 hours 50 minutes by bus and ferry. By car the time depends mainly on the ferry timetable. If you would rather not depend on ferries, drive around the Lyngenfjord via the E8 and E6 – longer but easier to plan. In winter: drive in daylight, build in buffers, check road information. As of October 2026.
- 1Tromsø
Start with a rental car at the airport or in town. Fill up or charge.
- 2BreivikeidetRoad overland
Ferry port on the Ullsfjord.
- 3SvensbyFerry across the Ullsfjord (approx. 20 minutes per timetable)
Arrival on the Lyngen peninsula.
- 4LyngseidetRoad along the Lyngen Alps
Village on the Lyngenfjord, ferry port.
- 5OlderdalenFerry across the Lyngenfjord (approx. 40 minutes per timetable)
Continue north on the E6.
- 6SkjervøyE6 and county road, finally via bridge and tunnel
Fishing town on an island; Hurtigruten port.
Why Nord-Troms in winter?
Away from Tromsø it quickly gets dark and quiet: little light pollution, wide fjords, churches in small villages and the Lyngen Alps as a backdrop. That is ideal for auroras, because with a car you can dodge clouds in different directions. Our photos from the region were taken around New Year – a ferry crossing on 31 December and midday light on New Year’s Day near Skjervøy.
The legs at a glance
| Leg | Type | Duration (guide) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tromsø – Breivikeidet | Road (E8, then county road) | about 45–60 minutes | Over the bridge to the mainland, then through the valley to the Ullsfjord |
| Breivikeidet – Svensby | Ferry across the Ullsfjord | approx. 20 minutes per timetable | Allow for waiting at the ramp |
| Svensby – Lyngseidet | Road along the Lyngen Alps | about 25–30 minutes | Lovely photo stops at lay-bys |
| Lyngseidet – Olderdalen | Ferry across the Lyngenfjord | approx. 40 minutes per timetable | Fewer departures than on the Ullsfjord |
| Olderdalen – Skjervøy | E6 north, then county road | about 1–1.5 hours | Finally via a bridge and tunnel onto the island |
Times are guide values in good conditions; in snow and ice you will drive more slowly. Including waiting time at both ferries, allow half a day for the route.
Planning the ferries
- Check timetables: the ferries run to a timetable, with fewer departures in winter and on public holidays. Current times are published by Troms fylkestrafikk.
- Arrive early: with few departures it pays to be at the ramp in good time.
- Plan the connection: the second ferry at Lyngseidet runs less often – time your departure from Tromsø so you make it comfortably.
- Payment: on many Norwegian ferries the fare is charged automatically via the number plate and the AutoPASS system; with rental cars this is usually handled by the rental company.
- Weather: departures can be cancelled in storms. Plan a buffer and know the overland alternative.
The ferry-free alternative
Via the E8 to Nordkjosbotn and then the E6 via Skibotn and Olderdalen northwards you drive around the Lyngenfjord. That is longer – roughly 4 to 5 hours to Skjervøy in total – but independent of ferry timetables and often more relaxed. Parts of the route can have convoy driving or closures in storms – check current information at Statens vegvesen. Skibotn in the inner Lyngenfjord is known for relatively low precipitation – a good fallback when the coast is cloudy.
Suggestion: 3 days Tromsø – Skjervøy – Tromsø
- Day 1: leave Tromsø in the late morning, ferry Breivikeidet – Svensby, midday light along the Lyngen Alps, ferry to Olderdalen, arrive in Skjervøy in the afternoon. In the evening check for auroras at the harbour or outside the village.
- Day 2: Skjervøy and surroundings in the midday light, short drives to viewpoints, back early. If the forecast is clear, spend the evening at a dark spot facing north.
- Day 3: drive back via the E6 and E8 (no ferry) or the same ferry route – depending on timetable and weather. If the coast is cloudy, make a detour towards Skibotn.
With more time, add a night in Lyngen, for example in a fjord-side cabin.
On the way: photo stops and auroras
- Only stop at lay-bys, rest areas or ferry ports – never on the road.
- Churches and villages on the fjords are especially beautiful at blue hour.
- For auroras choose a spot with a clear view north; check the cloud forecast on yr.no.
- Keep a hi-vis vest handy if you get out next to the road.
Winter driving in Nord-Troms
- Tyres: rental cars generally have suitable winter tyres in winter, often studded.
- Lights: dipped headlights are compulsory around the clock in Norway.
- Alcohol limit: 0.2 ‰.
- Fuel: small villages have few filling stations – fill up or charge before setting off.
- Wildlife: reindeer often stand on the road, especially at dusk. Slow down and wait.
- On towards Alta: the E6 over Kvænangsfjellet is frequently convoy-only or closed in storms – if you continue, check conditions first.
All the winter rules in detail: Lofoten in winter by car – route Svolvær, Henningsvær, Leknes, Reine, Å.
Back to Tromsø
Skjervøy is a Hurtigruten port. According to the transport company there is a round-trip option: bus and ferries out, ship back (evening departure, arriving in Tromsø about four hours later). Timetables change – please check current information. By car, simply drive back on either route.
More about Tromsø itself: Tromsø in winter – polar night, northern lights, trips and practical tips. When the days are shortest: Polar night and daylight – how dark is it up north really?.
Common mistakes
- Setting off too late: in December it is dark from around 2 pm – the ferries and the finest stretches will then be in darkness.
- Knowing only the ferry route: if a ferry is cancelled due to a storm, you need plan B overland.
- Missing holiday timetables: around Christmas and New Year far fewer ferries run.
- Stopping on the roadside for the aurora: one of the most common causes of dangerous situations in winter.
Checklist before departure
- Timetables of both ferries checked for the day
- Road conditions checked with Statens vegvesen (phone 175)
- Full tank, ice scraper and snow brush in the car
- Warm clothes, a thermos and snacks on board
- Accommodation informed of your arrival time
Heading on to the North Cape? Convoy times, North Cape Hall and safety: North Cape in winter – convoy driving, northern lights and what you need to know.
Frequently asked questions
TipDo the ferries run in winter?
Yes, both crossings are part of the regular transport network. In winter and on public holidays there are fewer departures, and storms can cause cancellations.
Getting thereDo you need winter driving experience for this route?
Yes. Snow, ice, darkness and wind are normal in winter. Drive in daylight, allow plenty of time and use the road information from Statens vegvesen.
TipIs it worth doing as a day trip?
There and back in one day is very long in winter. At least two nights in Skjervøy or Lyngen are better – that also increases your chance of a clear aurora night. More on forecasts: Understanding the aurora forecast – Kp index, Bz and clouds.








